Klemtu Big House

Frances tells us that the Spirit Bear swam across the inlet on the week that the Big House opened. When this was reported to the Elders, they said of course, this was our ancestor coming to see what we were doing.

Spirit Bears are white and belong to the Black Bear family. One in twelve black bears are born white. This is because the Raven, who created the world, brought the ice age to the people and from then on made a white spirit bear to remind the people of the ice age and the Raven's power.


The door to the museum that holds the artifacts used for the Tribal ceremonies and dances. Note that all four clans of the village are represented on the door, the Raven, the Orca, the Wolf and the Eagle. Frances told us that most of the original tribal masks, coppers, etc. were long ago sold to museums and were unable to be returned. The artifacts that they use now are gifts from other tribes in the area.

I asked Frances whether he could speak his Tribe's native language and he said no, that he was sent to a residential school where they were punished if they spoke their native tongue and he lost the ability to speak it. He can understand some but cannot speak or write it.

Frances also told us that many of the children today will not eat traditional tribal food, like the seaweed eaten by the Elders -- rumored to be the reason you never see a bald native. The children are called "spaghetti indians" because they are so used to western fare. The elementary and high school in Klemtu teach the Kitasoo language and they also have special culture classes. It is hoped that many of the traditions will be renewed. The new Big House is a great start.


The Canoe in front of the long house -- and me without a paddle!

I hope you can see this picture -- my flash wasn't working and this doesn't present the awesomeness of the interior with Frances telling us about his Tribe. The Carvings you see are at both ends and brilliant against the cedar wood. The firepit in the middle is used a the potlaches. They have six a year. Often an Elder will hold a potlach to celebrate or give thanks for something special that a grandchild has done. They schedule the date a year in advance so that the elder can begin to collect all the things he needs to hold a potlach -- food, gifts, etc.

Klemtu was a fascinating place with proud and friendly inhabitants. An enjoyable stay.

More later on our adventures beyond the charts.... time now to fill up at the fuel dock and turn away from civilization once again.