Ravishing Rapids....

Pictures to follow!!

Last post we had just put in the Refuge Cove on Redonda Island. The store is well stocked considering how ‘off road’ we are now. Only a few fresh veg – put plenty of other dry goods and fishing tackle, liquor store and post office. This store location served the earliest settlers and loggers – and when the Union Steamship boats came up delivering mail early Sunday mornings, it was swarming with families from the surrounding islands in Desolation coming to get their mail and catch up with their neighbors. Well, in 2008 and is much the same, as the cruisers on the water make Refuge Cove a spot for groceries, sending mail (internet and otherwise) and chatting up the dockies to see where everyone has been.

After attending to our provisioning, etc. we left Refuge Cove and made our way through Calm Channel to Church House Indian settlement. Church House is now completely ruins. Richard and I moored at the dock here some 15 years ago and the buildings were still standing although the village itself was deserted. At that time the Church (Anglican) was upright with a very nice steeple jutting towards the sky. You can see only part of one corner of the church now and the dock is totally gone. Not even the bears that were combing the beach were there to great us this time. How sad….

The rest of the day has been spent navigating the rapids. Current and tide tables, charts and calculators put to good use as we traversed Yuculta Rapids, Whirlpool Rapids and Dent Rapids (including Devil’s Hole!) and finally found ourselves in the beautiful Cordero Channel with snowcapped mountains glistening off our starboard side and water as calm and smooth as silk.

After a somewhat comedic landing (it’s good to put the boat out of gear when you are at the dock tying down) we settled in to Shoal Cove on East Thurlow Island. There once was an old hotel, store and pub here but it has all since gone – burned down they say. It was a favorite of the miners and loggers as well as government people who came by every so often to snoop into everyone’s business.

Now, there is a tidy little cabin with a terraced deck that serves as the pub. When it’s not the pub, it’s the wharfinger’s home. The current owners hail from Campbell River and are gradually restoring the cove with charming gardens and cabins.

We celebrated our extra long day by frying up our first catch of prawns from Desolation Sound earlier in the day.

Next day we took a walk up to the “Pub” and joined the owner and neighbors and friends for coffee. I was able to pick up some good local knowledge on the hot fishing spots. After a pleasant exchange we were invited to tour the grounds and asked to stay to the Pig Roast that was to happen later that night. Alas, the fish were calling my name and we declined the pig. When I lamented the fact that I didn’t have a downrigger on board, the cabin owner said – remember, fish can see up but they can’t see down. The theory being, they can look up to your flasher and spoon if you’re above them. We left the dock and spent 2 hours fishing off Hall Point on Nodales Channel. No luck – I snagged my gear and lost it at about 50 feet. The pig roast was looking better…..

We meandered our way down Cordero to Bickley Bay (very pretty and full of crab traps) and were joined by a group of Dall Porpoises for much of the way. They are such comedians and love to romp and play around the boat. We entered Green Point Rapids right at slack and tucked in to Murray Islets once the Sunderland Channel started getting bumping – a sure sign that Johnstone Strait would be uncomfortable transiting. We had a quiet night after finally getting the anchor(s) set so they would drag.

Up way to early in the morning to great Johnstone Strait at it’s optimal. The water was fine and we were thankful for the new radar which worked perfectly. As you can see from a few pictures, we certainly needed it.

After leaving Johnstone Strait, we made our way to Call Inlet and had lunch and a restful afternoon at Bockett Islets. A great little anchorage but it will be too shallow for evening so up anchor we went gunk holing Soderman Cove, the site of the Soderman logging operations. In 1905 Oscar Soderman was living in a shack on Minstrel Island, hand-logging for six months, selling the logs, getting roaring drunk until the money was gone and then starting over again. This was the pattern of his years until Sidney snagged him. When the red-light girls were run out of Ocean Falls, Madam Sidney established them across the inlet outside the city limits in a house on pilings, which was given the name Pecker Point. Exactly how it happened no one knows, but one morning Oscar, waking from an Ocean Falls spree found himself married to Sidney. She invested considerable money in his logging company, applied her expert management to their affairs, ended Oscar’s binges, paid cash and had no debts. So many characters pioneered these islands!

We found a snug little anchorage between the shore of and Warren Islands in Call Inlet. The traps were down again 2 Crab Traps and 1 Prawn Trap and we retired to watch a movie – Moby Dick – how fitting!

We didn’t make it to the end though. Early this morning we busied ourselves retrieving the traps – 0 in the 2 crab traps and a bounty of 64 prawns. We had a pleasant cruise through Chatham Channel and around to Minstrel Island, through the Blow Hole to where we now rest at Lagoon Cove on Cracroft Island.

Ah, the carefree life!

As we left Powell River/Westview in the afternoon avoiding playing bumper boats with all the commercial fishers in the basin, the sun was shining down and the winds were friendly.

I camped on the bow and basked in the sunshine as Richard cruised us into happy little Finn Cove just a stone’s throw away from Lund.

Finn Cove has a fascinating boat lift operated by a not so small woman. This is the lift that Mithrandir used when getting work done on her engine at the time Dan McCaughan and Richard put in to get repairs during their circumnavigation of Vancouver Island a few years back.

Finn Cove has a government float to which we rafted up along the fishing boat Sea Star III. I have to say that it was a bumping landing so their may not be a Sea Star IV… don’t tell anyone. The wharefinger came in the evening on a beautiful lap strake rowing dinghy to collect our fee. On the point of Finn Cove, there is a huge resort of some sort – looking rather out of place in this working man’s bay. To our delight we found that we could get CBC at 92.5 on the FM channel so we spent the evening listing to “Ideas” and feasted upon some fascinating conversation from the Ceeb.

Next day we made our way to Lund. Now, I think I have more than a passing connection here. The people who established Lund, Charles and Fred Thulin were from Sweden and hand logged Pendrell Sound in 1889 before they settled in the place they later christened Lund after their home town in Sweden. Now, as it happens that is the same home town that my great, great grandmother Eva Kristina Jakobsdatter Lund came from. Her father had been a soldier in Lund. I bet they knew of this family. Must check this out more thoroughly when I have access to my internet data bases.

Helicopter in Lund flying in digital radio parts. Note Rich, Paul & Steve, I hear this one doesn't break down as often as yours.

After fueling up we went in to get our laundry underway, I had a blissfully long hot shower (yum) and we stopped into Nancy’s Bakery (double yum) to have breakfast. Nancy’s had internet so I caught up on the emails including hearing all about Jocelyn’s new apartment that she is looking at leasing. Leslie reports that Michael, having finished writing his exams is out for the summer except to pick up his report card. Aaron still has a few days to go and is looking forward to a wind-up party that his class is having this week. After the better part of the morning doing our chores we headed off to the Copeland Islands. Our way was sunny with glassy waters. We anchored in this beautiful marine park made up of 4 islands and islets. We had a beautiful sunset and after fussing a bit with the propeller magnetic from shore, had a quiet anchorage.

Sunset in the Copeland Islands

In the morning we got cracking early and wandered through the rest of the Copelands on our way to Sarah Point and the entrance to Desolation Sound. I’d heard that a fish was caught off Sarah Point the day before so we trolled for about 2 hours, alas no luck. I wanted to catch a biggie to show Paul but that will come later. I have a new spiffy flasher that the sports shop says is really hot this year – it has a micro chip in it that sends out sounds to fish convincing them that they are hungry. Well, it must have been that those fishes were full up at Sarah Point.

We gunk holed Galley Bay around the corner and saw the remnants of the old orchard that the Finnish Hanson family settled on at the entrance. This bay was also famous for a “co-op” of cabins that were built along the middle shore – started by the free spirit generation of the 1920’s. It was a hard life on these islands and it is said that the women on the co-op would swim out bare naked to the yachties who came up from the south, receiving food and money from the skippers. I am sure the Hanson’s and their 10 children stay well clear of the co-opers. Galley Bay also had a school at one time with 10 students. A pretty little Bay and while part of the Desolation Sound Marine Park, there are private owners still on some parts of it.

An old cabin on Galley Bay

On we went to gunk-hole Portage Cove. A downright pretty little place spoiled by the huge PRIVATE, NO TRESSPASSING signs. It is reported that if you get too close to the private homes that someone will come out and shoot you with a potato gun. Not very friendly. It’s too bad because if one could transit across on land, you can reach a wonderful bay on the other side instead of traveling 9 miles around. No worries, off we went to explore Otter Island and we went through the very narrow pass between Otter and Eveleigh (Rich being the adventurous type). We traversed and further down approached Melanie Cove from this side but this time the Captain agreed that it was maybe a tad shallow and many propeller inspectors were waiting to check us out. So, we went around Eveleigh Island and enter the same way normal people do, anchoring at the head of Melanie Cove near the wall we did 14 years ago when I got the call that Leslie was in labor 6 weeks early and I flew home to see my first grandson, whilst the rest of the family remained. So, it feels like I’ve finally come full circle and completed my vacation.

Rich stern ties to the rock wall in Melanie Cove

We had a gloriously sunny day in Melanie Cove. Dad went for a swim again and reported that it was much warmer than in Princess Louisa (no doubt!). On a row ashore Rich met a couple from the MV Western Leaves and enjoyed a good chat. Melanie Cove was first settled (by a white man) by a man named Mike Shuttler. He was a bachelor who was from Minnesota who immigrated to Canada after a brawl that left a huge scar on his face and from which he spent 4 days unconscious. After he recovered, he decided that he would go away to the wilderness and think about life – and he settled at the head of the Melanie Bay in 1890. He had a huge orchard, vegetable garden, flower garden and kept goats. He was a voracious reader and reported to have the best collection of books in the area.

The head of Melanie Cove where "Mike" had his cabin.

A sunny anchorage in Melanie Cove

Thursday morning met us with a drizzle and overcast skies, the first in several days so no complaining here! (But it does explain why Captain George Vancouver called the place "Desolation Sound" -- he must have been here when it rained)

The drizzle down Desolation Sound

We went round to have a look at Laura Cove which seems a mirror image of Melanie Cove at the head of the bay. A man by the name of Phil Levign lived here in the late 1800’s. He is said to have shot a man in Quebec and come to live here in the Wilderness. History says that he was completely illerate so friends would stop in to read newspapers to him and to write his letters home to his family in Quebec. Interestingly enough when his neighbor Mike (above) from Melanie Cove died, Phil inherited all his books and although not able to read them gave him happy memories of his neighbor.

We’re off the Pendrell Sound today in the hopes of catching some Prawns at our favorite spot and anchor at the end of the Sound where the water temperatures will be in the high 70’s and I shall go for a swim. The weather calls for sunshine, but it’s hard to imagine it burning through all this drizzle.

Our anchorage behind the islet in Desolation -- just in front of the Oyster Bed.

Friday morning and Pendrell is beautiful.

A friend joins us for coffee.

We brought the anchor up and said goodbye to all the sleeping oysters and made our way to the Prawn trap that we set just on the other side of the Islet.

We raise our trap and up comes dinner -- 44 delicious looking prawns!

The water temperature was sublime and Richard went for another swim 'round the boat.

From Pendrell we cruised down to have a look at Roscoe Bay -- a great spot for "next time" and made our way to Refuge Cove and the only spot for provisions before going further North. More later when another internet site is found!

The Remarkable Princess Louisa Chatterbox Falls

We're finally back in the land of the digital bits swirling about our bow so it's time to give you all an update.


Just past the Eco Barge in Nanaimo -- I guess this eagle can't read!

We left Nanaimo complete with a new radar on-board and the lockers full to the brim with provisions for the trip North. Out of Departure Bay we saw the new super ferries complete with the 2010 Olympic logos. They are beautiful.


The new BC Ferry with the Olympic Logo

The north end of Newcastle island was also quite interesting with rocks that formed like the hoodoos in Alberta (and South Dakota too).

Rock formations at the North end of Newcastle Island

The crossing was quite pleasant over to the mainland side and perfectly flat when we arrived at our anchorage in Bargain Bay, just south of Pender Harbor. It was indeed a great bargain -- no moorage fees at anchor and a calm night with a gorgeous sunset!

Freill Falls on the way up to Harmony Islands

Next day we made for our first stop on the way to Princess Louisa -- the Harmony Islands.

The beautiful little islands are part private and part marine park. We anchored on the little islet that until now has not had a name -- we have dubbed it Neptune's cradle. Richard will regale you all with the longer tale given the reason for it's name. I shall just tell you that we butted upagainst the rocks for a while but with no harm done
.
Neptune's Cradle Harmony Islands

After 4 hours of cruising and being unsure we could make it to Malibu Rapids for slack, we decided to anchor for the night in Deserted Bay on Prince of Wales Reach. We saw our first bear on the beach tromping through the debris left at low tide searching for tasty oysters and clams. He didn't stay around long enough to get his picture taken. The day was drizzly and the evening eerily foggy and fascinating. We were safe and snug in our boat. It reminded me of many a weekend at the end of Pitt Lake with the clouds and mountains closing in on us.

Deserted Bay, Princess Royal Reach


Safe and Snug aboard Acappella in Deserted (spooky) Bay


The Captain relaxes after a long day crusing!

After we up anchored from Deserted Bay, it was then truly deserted! It had once been an Indian Village, now long abandoned. At the north end of the bay there was a beautiful stream and the steam sizzled up to greet us as we made our way past on the way to Princess Louisa Inlet.


Cruising up to the Stream in Deserted Bay

The Steamy Stream at Deserted Bay

The day cruising through Malibu Rapids and up Princess Louisa's Inlet was fabulous.
The totem pole at the Malibu Rapids Camp Lodge

Approaching Malibu Rapids in bound to Princess Louisa Inlet

On our way up the Inlet we could drive right in to waterfalls -- here's one giving me a spray!

We arrived at the dock and met up with a couple from Oregon (49' Defever) who had been traveling up with us the day before. Princess Louisa's Chatterbox falls is a marvel of nature and awesome to have right in your backyard.

The dock at Princess Louisa Marine Park and Chatterbox Falls in the Backyard!

After securing the boat, we launched the kayak and paddled up one of the other falls about half way up the inlet. The kayak was fun -- but the arms were achy the first day! We beached the kayak and took a short hike up to the first fall. We are told that kids 'bum' down the falls on the smooth rocks going down to the inlet. The forest was fabulous with trees and ferns blocking out the sunlight and the smells were deliciously fresh.


Even with all this beauty around us, the varnish still needs to be scraped!

Richard picked some oysters on the beach -- which were very bountiful. We later found out why -- there is a moratorium on harvesting shellfish in the inlet so back in the water they went.

Returning to the big dock we discovered that the Schooner Bay Yacht Club (from near Nanoose of Vancouver Island) were having their Summer Solstice cruise weekend and many of their club boats were descending upon us. We are asked to take a raft alongside, but instead offered to move and anchor out -- which we prefer anyway. In return we were made honorary club members and invited to the dock party later that afternoon.

Happy Hour with the Schooner Bay Yacht Club

Our anchorage was spectacular! We had 7 waterfalls on our port side and Chatterbox Falls -- the big on -- on our starboard side. We anchored and stern tied to the shore (thanks Paul for buying that spool of line for us!) We returned to the dock to join Happy Hour with the SBYC and then returned to have dinner aboard Acappella.




Anchored out and stern tied by our own private waterfall

The morning was overcast but it was still warm. Dad decided he had to go for a dip at Princess Louisa -- just to say he did it, I guess. So naked as a jay bird, off he went for a quick dip returning to the boat rather quickly I might add. No picture of this, as you will agree....

Leaving the Inlet, and through the slightly roiling Mailbu Falls, we made our way down Princess Royal Reach and found the amazing Indian Pictograms on the rocks.

Indian Pictographs about 2 Miles from Patrick Point, Princess Royal Reach NW side

Now out in Malaspina Strait, we found it somewhat lumpy but knew by the weather that it would flatten out by early afternoon so we put in to McRae Bay a lovely little spot on the Sunshine Coast. We lazed about for a few hours and then made our way up to Westview (Powell River) under satin smooth waters and glorious sunshine.

And here we are today in Westview -- me at an internet cafe and Richard in search of a new part for the controller on the anchor winch -- we discovered that the switch to bring up the anchor stopped working at our last anchorage so a repair is needed.

Catching up with the kids who are now in cellular range, we find our youngest grandson Wesley is now walking -- and, appropriately had his first several steps captured at the Scandinavian Cultural Festival -- I think he wanted to chase after his ancestors -- the Vikings!

Father's and Fishing....

We've had three beautifully sunny days in a row and it's just heaven when that happens! After our stay at Thetis Island Marina accompanied by Father's Day celebrations in the morning, we made our way to Chemainus on Vancouver Island -- the town with all of the murals.

Happy Father's/Grandfather's Day!!

Everyone enjoyed their walkabout, especially Matty who found a yellow school bus.


My world is complete -- a yellow school bus!

There were a number of boats with families onboard and the boys had a great time finding the underwater sea life at the dock.

Matty greets his first Starfish

After a Chinese Smorgasbord (?) for Father's Day, we stayed at Chemainus overnight. Next day we did a little fishing with no success -- except for Matty, he always had a fish on his line!!


We traversed Dodd's Narrows and spent last night at anchor near the Dinghy Dock Pub at Newcastle. After dinner, Grandma and Grandpa stayed with the boys while Mom and Dad got out for a few hours of quiet.


Buffy and Paul enjoying the sunshine

This morning we made our way to Nanaimo to drop off the Ramm family and do up our chores for the trip north. The old radar (30+ years old now) gave up the ghost so Richard is installing a new one as I write.

Sad to see the kids go -- it was unbelievable how good they were on the boat in confined spaces. We will miss them as we are Michael, Aaron, Sol and Wesley. Here's recent pics of the William Tomkinson family -- I think they are great.



Our newly employed daughter has had her first week of work at the Children's Hospital. Dying to hear all the skinny (hint, hint).

Love to all -- more as we progress and I find internet!
Sunset at Newcastle Island

Greetings from Sunny Thetis Island

Richard -- taking the Airs at Silva Bay, Gabriola with his beloved Maple Leaf flying near-by.

Happy Father's Day to all you Dads out there!
We've had a great few days crusing the Gulf Islands. From Newcastle on Thursday we headed up to Silva Bay on Gabriola and had time for walks, showers and a relaxing evening. The boys have been great in spite of the small quarters on the boat.


Am I cool or what?


This is Grandma's favorite past time!

Paul and I wanted to ply the waters for the elusive salmon so out we headed to the lumpy east side of Gabriola. After some rockin' and rollin' we decided to head inside to the Gabriola reefs and were rewarded for our trolling -- We had two hits and the second was a keeper -- a beautiful Blue Ling Cod caught by Paul. We enjoyed a celebratory dinner of the sweet tasty fish in the beautiful Pirates Cove Marine Park off Decourcy Island.


... boy was it tasty!

Next day being Saturday, it was off to the Gabriola Market in Ganges and a 3 hour cruise starting at 6:00 a.m. to make the most of our day. We bought some of the great stone oven bread (again), meandered with the boys through the market and had a great play in the park.

Grandma and her boys "horsing" around....

Of course, we stopped at Glad's for ice cream!



Mmmm good!

Tried our rods in the water again off the hook on Galliano but not luck. So, we made our way through the ditch between Kuper and Thetis to settle in for the evening -- to the accompanyment of the rock band at the bar -- who said boating was a quiet pleasure??

We're off again today to try to find the fishes and perhaps go in to Chemanis to see the famous murals.

The weather is SUNNY! Yeah!