Union Washington

Saturday morning brought us a picture postcard day and we hoisted the anchor for a short run over to the town of Union, right at the bend of the canal on Annas Bay, just on the edge of the Skokomish River tideflats. The visiting dock at the marina was great, as was the harbormaster - friendly and accommodating. Our 'host' gave us a run-down on the little town and pointed out a walking trail so off we went.

The trail took us up a very STEEP hill above the marina, but rewarded us with spectacular views of the canal, mountains and the Great Bend as well as a gentle slope downward back toward the water. In this picture you can see acappella moored on the outside dock.

We had worked up enough appetite for a mid morning brunch at the local cafe -- it was delicious all 'round.

We enjoyed the glorious sun and warmth ashore for a few hours then aboard again to head back up the canal northbound to Pleasant Harbor -- which is indeed very pleasant. There is a marina as well as a state park float but we chose to anchor and were rewarded with a warm, lazy afternoon - finally updating the blog.

Today is cloudy and overcast but no rain so far and we plan to run up to Port Townsend, stopping at the wooden boat school on the way. More later as we make our way up the Olympic coast to search for new sites!

Exploring the Hood Canal - southbound

Friday, June 26th -- Now, winding our way south, we have a beautiful sunny afternoon cruising down the canal to the big bend at the end. There are so many beautiful cottages and homes on the shore and many, many sand & shell beaches. Both the captain and the owner are enjoying the rays and deep into recovery mode.

Perfect spot for afternoon tea!








Along the way, we meet a beautiful sailboat just as we turn the corner of the "Big Bend". She is certainly a pretty sight in full sail.


We meander by Union (a town to be explored next day), past a fancy resort newly restored called Alderbrook and make our way for our night's anchorage across the canal at Tahuya Cove.

The captain in repose at anchor in Tahuya Cove as he sketches a record of our arrival.






The dinner gong is sounded and the captain is presented with a large filet mignon steak and trimmings for his day's effort. This will help to fatten him up!

Seabeck Cove

Seabeck Marina -- all that's left from a raging winter storm....

Thursday, June 25 we left Port Gamble in a cloudy bit of drizzle and made our way further down Hood Canal to Seabeck Cove where once there was a marina, but tis no more. A winter storm took it out some years ago and by the time all the environmental & cultural impact studies, state and federal bureaucrats gave the okay to rebuild but by then the investors had been lured elsewhere. Want remains is a great little restaurant, general store, espresso bar and antique/gift shop.

Seabeck - Conference Center
Also, a note to Will & Bree -- this is the likely spot where the Unitarian church camp is in August that you spoke of -- they have a conference facility that is rented to various groups throughout the summer. It is right across the street from the restaurant and grocery store.

Needless to say, with no docks, we anchored overnight and took our new dinghy complete with motor attached to check out the locals. We are VERY lucky -- the motor started the first time -- not having run it since last July 1st which I remember very well because I got a thoroughly soaked bottom in the old dinghy when we were at Lagoon Cove last year. This dinghy landed us safe and dry! After a wander around, coffee and apple pie for Dad in the restaurant, we made our way back to the boat and then off to further adventures down the canal.

You can't go there.....

Port Gamble, Mill Manager's Home

Thursday June 25th -- slightly cloudy this morning! Armed with our trusty boater's guide books telling us that there is nowhere to land a dinghy near the quaint town of Port Gamble, we set about to find a spot to land. Just south of the old mill, which is now getting the final touches to clearing it off, we landed the new dinghy. Scrabbling up the tideline full of oysters and mussels, we made our way through the bramble and on to the mill yards. Quite sure that this was not allowed, we stood tall, shoulders back and pretended that we had every right to be walking through the debris, heavy equipment, bolders and old recovered logs -- right past the temporary office hut and up to the town.


Town Hall, Post Office

The effort was rewarded! Port Gamble was the oldest operating Mill in the USA. In 1853 two strong-willed and smart businessmen, Andrew Jackson Pope and Frederick Talbot ventured west from East Machias, Maine and landed on the shores of the Hood Canal. They found their home in "Teekalet", meaning brightness of the noonday sun". Modelled after their own New England hometown, Port Gamble still reflects this architectural style -- and the entire town on 120 acres is still owned by the Pope & Talbot Company. They lease the historic homes to merchants who have stores on the first floor of many of the homes and their residences on the second floor. Lot's of shops, boutiques, a bookstore, general store and a museum. Quite charming all in all!
One of the many stately old Mill town homes

On our visit to the museum we find that the mill started in 1853 and sawed it's last log in 1995. Originally the timber went primarily to San Fransisco as the city was being built, but during the course of the business it shipped timber to many overseas markets as well.

Our savvy young businessmen almost went bankrupt when their workers quit to join the Alaskan gold rush leaving them with few workers. The men made a trip back to Maine and offered a job to any man who was fit, married and had children or the prospect of them, transportation to their west coast mill, all the free timber they needed to build them homes in return for a lease payment of $1.00 per year for the land and steady work. The men built in the style they knew to shelter their families and that is why the town architecture is a New England delight.
The General Store, Port Gamble -- note Dad's spiffy boots -- necessary for crawling up and down tidewater flats....

-- and a matching pair inside the general store -- but my cap matches of course.

Port Gamble

Wednesday June 24th - up anchor at 7:25 a.m. to head out before the winds stirred up for our cruise across Admiralty Channel -- which can be stinky sometimes when the winds are high. Our crossing was quite comfortable and the captain pronounced a nap near Foulweather Bluff at the entrance to Hood Canal. After said nap, and with the ever increasing wind we left for our evening anchorage at the south end of Port Gamble. We spent a few hours doing the anchor macrame before we decided to up anchor and move further east along the shore of the bay. That was much more comfortable and we had a quiet night.

And we're off....

Tuesday June 23rd - After staying onboard overnight at the dock, we ticked off a few last minute things and we were off! Possibly the lowest tide of the year but we got through the bay without a problem. It was a sunny day and both Dad and I immediately started to feel great -- our colds and flu magically forgotten as we basked in the sun on the bow. We arrived at Langley on Whidbey Island in time for a nice stroll through the town. There are a suprising number of shops closed down -- must be the times. Our favorite grocery store was open though and we bought a feed of mussels to enjoy for our dinner. Mmmm they were great!

As the day came to a windy end, we re-anchored in a more favorable spot and listened to a few of the many CBC and NPR podcasts that we've downloaded to entertain us while afloat.